Greenhouse-grown Cotton Reduces Growing Worldwide

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G-Star unveils its latest denim innovation ‘Homegrown Denim’, a pioneering scientific collaboration with Wageningen University & Research, and Dutch Cotton. This experiment, funded by G-Star, explores how greenhouse-grown cotton could help drastically reduce the impact of cotton growing worldwide, and presents these findings to benefit the whole industry. 

The Challenges  

Cotton is an easy crop to grow, but it requires a lot of agricultural space and can take up to 10,000 liters of water to produce 1 kilo of cotton. Besides this, cotton growing relies on a specific warm climate, making cotton fields the starting point of a long and complex supply chain. The global demand for responsible cotton is increasing to add to these challenges, but there is a huge shortfall. What if cotton could be grown better, anywhere?

The Research

For six months, a crop of greenhouse-grown cotton was studied at a research facility in Bleiswijk, the Netherlands. The research examined quality, yield, and fiber properties, comparing its environmental footprint to traditional methods. Strategies like precision irrigation and renewable energy were explored to reduce impact, and economic viability and market potential were also analyzed.

The First Dutch Greenhouse-Grown Cotton With Findings

Overall, it was discovered that growing cotton in a greenhouse provides a controlled and protected environment that boosts crop productivity, quality, and sustainability, lowering the risks of outdoor growing.

Here are the top benefits that were found:
  • Increased Yields: Greenhouses boost cotton yield potential, with plants growing up to 4 meters tall and producing 5 to 23 times more cotton.
  • Extended Growing Season: Controlled environments in greenhouses enable cotton harvesting for longer than usual.
  • Weather Protection: Greenhouse-grown cotton is cleaner and whiter, with minimal contamination, and is shielded from weather damage.
  • Pest and Disease Management: Enclosed environments naturally deter pests and diseases, eliminating the need for synthetic pesticides.
  • Water Efficiency: Greenhouse systems can save up to approximately 95% of water per kilo of cotton by using recycled rainwater for irrigation.
  • Soil Conservation: Potted cultivation minimizes soil erosion, preserving fertility and health without compromising quality.
  • Localized Production: Greenhouses support local economies and sustainability by minimizing transportation needs and enhancing community resilience.
  • Prolonged Plant Lifespan: Greenhouse environments enable multi-seasonal plant cultivation, improving sustainability and productivity.
The Supply Chain

With greenhouse-grown cotton in place, G-Star joined forces with local suppliers to create the first ever fully locally sourced and manufactured jeans. Every aspect of cotton processing and production of the garment was completed within the country, from ginning (separating cotton from its seeds) to spinning, weaving, sewing, dyeing, and finishing. In addition, G-Star used electric vehicles between suppliers, creating the shortest possible supply chain with the least impact.

The Jeans

G-Star prototypes were created from the first greenhouse-grown cotton harvest. The jeans were garment-dyed and finished with G-Star trims. The limited pieces are not for sale but will be available exclusively for press usage.

The Future

This research and collaboration could be the first step in a promising journey towards more sustainable cotton growing. G-Star has committed to supporting the next phase, in which new cotton is cultivated in the greenhouse facility in collaboration with Wageningen University & Research. G-Star and WUR have also invited two new partners, Inno Growers, and substrate company Grodan, to transition the research efforts into practical cultivation and scale-up production.

In addition to optimizing growing methods, the primary goal this year is to enhance cotton yield per square meter, aiming to increase it from 1,2kg to 2,2-2,5 kg. The next phase involves inviting other industry stakeholders to join forces, co-invest, and amplify efforts – generating substantial impact and reshaping the fashion supply chain for the collective good.

The Campaign: ‘Homegrown Denim’

To promote the greenhouse-grown cotton project to a broader audience G-Star worked with award-winning illustrator and artist Christian Borstlap who also collaborated on the Raw for the Oceans campaign in 2014, and creative director, Joris Kuijpers. The ‘Homegrown Denim’ animation uses visual poetry and animation to share the findings artistically.  

The full findings report can be downloaded at www.G-Star.com/homegrown-denim