Issued by: Staff writer Joan Hendricks
What is fueling skin-lightening practices in Africa and how dangerous is it really?
Skin lightening has become a popular trend all over the world but it has reached epidemic levels in African countries. In South Africa among a population of African and Indian individuals, 32.3 % admitted to engage in skin lightening practice.
We spoke to Meagan Jacobs, a PhD candidate in the Division of Social and Behavioral Sciences, at the University of Cape Town Medical School about why skin-lightening, in particular, has become such a popular trend as of late and why it’s such a dangerous trend to follow.
1. Skin lightening using dangerous chemicals are trends that have become so popular as of late, fueling a multi-billion-dollar industry in Africa. Why do you think this is the case, especially in this modern day and age?
Several factors are responsible for the increase of skin lightening practices. These factors range from social, political and psychological. Overall skin lightening is a societal problem having deep psychological roots. On social level societal pressures to conform to a presenting one in a certain way, expectations are imposed mainly because lighter skin is associated with being beautiful.
These are primarily fuelled by South African history of colonialism and Apartheid and most commonly colourism. Colourism also known as discrimination of based on skin colour has been evident through the eras of the slave trade, colonialism and apartheid. Colourism also refers to internalised racism, and this involved prejudice and stereotyping specifically among members of the same racial group.
One example of this was found under the coloured community (racially mixed). In Apartheid the “pencil test” was used to classify coloureds in terms of receiving benefits. A pencil would be place in one’s hair, whether or not it stays in or fall out would determine if you were subjected to fewer legislative restrictions. Hair texture together with fair skin, in some cases was used to pass as “white people” in order to be classified as white and therefore be able to access resources and benefits.
On the other hand, in the black culture, siblings who were lighter in complexion were treated “better” and it was also more socially acceptable. Furthermore, today the term “yellow bone” draws a lot of attention in the black community. This term is used by black men when they refer to a light complexion black female.
Dating or marrying a “yellow bone” are perceived as prestigious in the community as light skin mainly because of the positive connotation attached to lighter skin. As a result of these same perceptions of white/light skin prevail. The mere fact in the increased consumption in skin lightening products overall suggest that there is dissatisfaction with skin colour in that a lighter skin colour is preferred over a darker one.
Lastly there has been an increase in technological advances over the past 15 years with the introduction of internet and social media. Together with certain standards of beauty, the media continues to shape certain ideals of beauty for example long straight hair, weaves, skin lightening and portraying certain body images as acceptable. Situated within the context of the media, lies the heart of popular culture i.e celebrities.
Within the technological advances especially the introduction of social media platforms such as Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, celebrities became the idealized images of beauty. Celebrities are perceived as role models and the direct impact of the effect on individuals cannot be avoided or ignored. Plastic surgery and other forms of body modifications such as hair and skin has become the order of the day.
Celebrities having profiles across social media with thousands of followers use these platforms to their advantage. These platforms are then used to accumulate more followers at the same time accentuate their beauty. This notion of beauty is further perpetuated when celebrities become brand ambassadors for well-known cosmetic houses as seen in marketing strategies on television and print media.
Every individual is different in terms their phenotype and especially as an individual in South Africa. When a certain standard of beauty is portrayed in the media, the generic beauty is violated or flawed because many times we do not “fit the part”, instead they are discriminated against, stereotyping takes place and one can develop psychological disorders such as depression and eating disorders.
2. Why do you believe these practices is not just harmful to the psyche but also to one’s body? And what are the long-term repercussions of continuing with these treatments?
Skin lightening products contains active ingredients such as mercury, hydroquinone and its derivatives; topical steroids and resorcinol which can, with chronic use, cause irreversible skin damage. Cosmetics containing these ingredients can cause itching, burning, darker skin patches, skin irritation and even skin cancer.
What this makes these more dangerous is that sometimes these products are mixed with local concoctions made from household chemicals such as automotive battery acid, bleach, laundry detergent and toothpaste, putting them at risk for negative health outcomes Therefore it is imperative that creams be used under the direct supervision of a clinician
To name a few, dermatological consequences, skin lesions, thinning of the skin, exogenous ochronosis eczema, bacterial and fungal infections and dermatitis Other more serious risk s include hypertension, kidney diseases, diabetes, infertility, foetal toxicity and skin cancer. These can extend from acute to chronic depending on the level of exposure
3.This is obviously a big problem in Africa but does this also affect the global community?
Generally skin lightening is a global phenomenon and has reached epidemic levels in African countries. Studies located in Asia, USA, U.K., India, China and the Caribbean indicate the prevalence of a thriving skin lightening cream industry, furthermore statistics in African countries indicates that 25% of women in Bamako, Mali a further 52% in Dakar, Senegal, and 77% in Lagos, Nigeria use skin lighteners. In South Africa among a population of African and Indian individuals, 32.3 % admitted to engage in skin lightening practice.
4. Are there safer ways women can go about to lighten skin? Are there any solutions you can offer?
The safest way to lighten your skin should be under the supervision of a clinician, irrespective of the treatment plan
5. Do you think this is truly just a trend or is this something that will continue into the future?
It seems to be more a growing trend but at the same time be a long-term practice. Skin lightening dates back to the Elizabethan age. During this period, powder and paint was used for enhancements where it continued through eras of colonialism, apartheid even up until today where we are 25 years post-apartheid skin lightening now is practiced disproportionately within the “communities of colour” and more exceedingly among people of African descent.
This practiced has been passed on from generation to generation and currently there is no evidence to indicate that there is a decrease in practice, Instead, it proves to be a common trend among dark skinned individuals who prefer to be a shade or two lighter and more lighter skinned individuals who are obsessed with flawless, clear skin, where creams are used to remove pigmentation caused by blemishes or scars.
* Meagan Jacobs is a PhD candidate in the Division of Social and Behavioral Sciences, at the University of Cape Town Medical School.
